10 Toques Up!

February 2015
Written By: 
Denise Mullen
Photographs by: 
Scott Smallin
The local Confrerie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs celebrates its 10th anniversary with fine food, fitting wines and fellowship

A black-tie affair swish with tuxes and evening gowns, the 60-or-so local members gathered to carry on the pride and tradition of Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, the world’s oldest international gastronomic society of record.

Founded in Paris in 1248, the mission of the society is to preserve “the camaraderie and pleasures of the table and to promote excellence in all areas of the hospitality arts.”

With Chaîne societies in more than 70 countries, many of the Myrtle Beach members proudly sported the official sash, sparkling with pins they’ve collected from other chapters, near and far.

Under the direction of Executive Chef Julien Lancrerot, ten chefs prepared each of ten classic and creative courses, paired with fine wines from both the old and new worlds.

Based on the practices of the old French royal guild of meat roasters, the Chaîne courses included quail, short ribs and even seared elk.

It was all and everything it promised to be.

Each plate was picture-perfect and just the right portion size to turn hope into reality that you would make it all the way to dessert. From hors d’oeuvres to gourmet cake and ice cream, there was a sense of excitement with each delectable course, preceded by the pouring of its paired wine partner. The company was charming. Conversation bubbled as effortlessly as the featured champagne.

Our round table of Chaîne-ers talked excitedly about the upcoming Italian Truffle and Hazelnut Dinner to be prepared by Executive Chef Carlo Zarri from the Piedmont Region of Italy and of the annual gala fundraiser in March for the Culinary Arts Department at Horry-Georgetown Technical College.

I was impressed to learn that this Chaîne chapter has raised more than $400,000 for scholarship and building programs at the college and is now awarding four annual medal and cash scholarships to students committed to a career in the culinary arts.

But to really get a taste of what the Confrerie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is all about, follow us through the incredible Ten Toques menu, the chefs and the celebration of wines.

All About The Chaîne
Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is the world’s oldest international gastronomic society, founded in Paris in 1248. It is devoted to preserving the camaraderie and pleasures of the table and to promoting excellence in all areas of the hospitality arts.
Each year the society sponsors young chef and sommelier competitions that attract contestants from throughout the world, while the Chaîne Foundation provides scholarships for students in these fields.
Chaîne is based on the traditions and practices of the old French royal guild of meat roasters (hence, “rotisseurs”).
The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs has 135 chapters in the United States, including eight in the Carolinas. The membership roster includes culinary professionals and local residents who enjoy good food, fine wines and camaraderie.
Membership inquiries are encouraged and should be directed to Tony Hirsh at wahirsh@aol.com or (917) 612-6714.

Menu:
Cocktail Reception:
Passed hors d’oeuvres of Muscovy Duck Breast stuffed with Carolina apples and wrapped in bacon, Maine Lobster Mousseline and Coconut Butternut Squash Shooters {Paired with Roederer Estate Brut, California NV}

By Chef Megian Cinari, Waterscapes at Marina Inn
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Appetizer Course:
Feuillete d’escargots with sautéed baby spinach, candied pecans and crème de Roquefort
{Paired with Louis Latour Beaune Blanc, Cote d’Or, France, 2010}

By Chef Eric Masson, The Brentwood Restaurant & Wine Bistro, Chaîne Maitre Rôtisseur
Chef Masson graduated from three culinary schools at Brest, Noirmoutier and Paris. After working in top hotels and restaurants in France, England and the United States, he and his wife, Kim, founded The Brentwood in Little River in 2007. A winner of local “Top Chef” awards, Masson has performed in food shows with Guy Fieri, Paula Deen, Fabio Viviani and Aaron McCargo, Jr.
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Soup Course:
Veloute de cepes of porcini, shallots and crème fraiche {Paired with Antinori Guado al Tasso Vermentino, Italy, 2012}

By Chef Sokun Slama, New Southern Kitchen, Whiteville, N.C., Chaîne Maitre Rôtisseur
Chef Slama has come a long way since leaving her homeland of Cambodia, cooking in France and then landing in the U.S. in 1998. In 2005 she opened her first restaurant, the Lafayette Manor Inn in Washington, Georgia. In April 2007, Slama opened Sophie’s Café-Bistro on the square of Washington, Georgia. Later that same year, she was offered the Fitzpatrick Hotel and created the Down Under restaurant. In 2009, Slama moved to Whiteville, opening the New Southern Kitchen to accolades.
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Salad Course:  
Composition of lettuces and rainbow of vegetables {Paired with NC Extra Brut Sparkling, Anadia, Portugal, NV}

By Chef Martin Dobr, Martin’s Restaurant, Chaîne Vice Conseiller Culinaire
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Seafood Course:
Pan-Seared Day Boat Scallops with Fennel Sauce and Vanilla-Scented Sweet Potato Puree
{Paired with Beringer Luminus Chardonnay, Napa Valley, California, 2012}

By Chef Julien Lancrerot, Waterscapes at Marina Inn, Chaîne Chef Rotisseur Honoraire
Chef Lancrerot is a graduate of Les Cotes de Villebon and Albert Camus College culinary schools in Paris. He worked alongside famous French master chef Patrick Lenôtre and was Chef de Cuisine for the grand opening of the MGM Mansion in Las Vegas. He has received numerous awards in local chef challenges.
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Intermezzo:  
Grapefruit sorbet

By Chef Tina Spaltro, The Dunes Golf and Beach Club
Pastry Chef Spaltro is a graduate of Horry-Georgetown Technical College who found her love of pastry and bread-making while working at Sea Island Inn (now known as the Island Vista Resort). She has won numerous local awards for her savory sweets and breads.


Poultry Course:  
Crispy Pan-Fried Quail with Andouille sausage and a cassoulet of flageolet beans, mushrooms and veloute {Paired with A to Z Wineworks Pinot Noir, Newburg, Oregon, 2012}

By Chef Andrew Gardo, Sea Captain’s House

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Meat Course:
Zinfandel-Braised Beef Short Ribs with parsnip puree, caramelized leeks, roasted carrots, truffle potatoes and braising jus reduction  {Paired with Seghesio Zinfandel, Sonoma, California, 2012}

By Chef Mike McKinnon, The Cypress Room at Island Vista Resort
A true Myrtle Beach native, Chef McKinnon is a graduate of the Culinary Arts program at Horry-Georgetown Technical College. His father fostered his love of cooking at a very early age and he went on to hone his skills in some of the area’s finest restaurants.

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Game Course:
Seared Elk Tenderloin with roasted celeriac and apple hash, butternut squash, pickled maitake and a smoked cider and juniper reduction {Paired with Chateau Teyssier, St. Emilion, Bordeaux, 2010}

By Chef James Clark, The Carolina Inn, Chapel Hill, N.C.
Chef Clark was gracious enough to return to the Grand Strand for the Ten Toques celebration. He has received several top recognitions in his career, including a 5 Star Award from the National Restaurant Science Association, and was featured in Bon Appetit for his cutting-edge cuisine.

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Cheese Course:
A Worley Lane Farms goat cheese tasting with chevre marshmallow, goat’s milk ricotta, whey emulsion, smoked foie gras with muscadine, plus a cornmeal waffle, beet meringue and pickled apples
{Paired with Jaboulet Parallele 45, Cotes du Rhone, 2012}

By Chef Joseph Bonaparte, Executive Director, The Culinary Institute of Myrtle Beach, Horry-Georgetown Technical College, Chaîne Maitre Rôtisseur
Chef Bonaparte holds a Master of Italian Cooking diploma. He has cooked and traveled his way through the United States, Italy, France and Thailand. An award-winning chef and instructor, Bonaparte studied at the University of Houston, the California Culinary Academy and ITALCOOK.

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Dessert Course:
Lime Chiffon Cake with Passion Fruit Sauce, Coconut Ice Cream and Macadamia Nut Brittle

By Chef Tina Spaltro, The Dunes Golf and Beach Club

Coconut Butternut Squash Shooters

Issue: 
February 2015

In a wide, heavy-bottom pot, heat enough olive oil to sweat the onion, shallots and garlic. Add in the butternut squash and allow it to sweat over low heat. Add in the white wine and curry powder. Reduce to half the volume.

Add in the vegetable and chicken broth. Bring the liquid to a boil and then turn down the heat. When the squash is fully cooked, puree the mixture in a blender.

Pour the puree back into a sauce pot, add the coconut milk and simmer until thick. Season to taste with salt and pepper. If the soup is too thick, add more broth to desired consistency.

Meal: 
Soups, stews

Olive oil
1 yellow onion, thinly sliced
3 shallots, thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, minced
3 butternut squash, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
2 cups white wine
1 tablespoon curry powder
1/2 gallon of vegetable broth
1/2 gallon of chicken broth
3 cans coconut milk
Salt and pepper to taste

By Chef Megian Cinari, Waterscapes at Marina Inn

Zinfandel-Braised Beef Short Ribs

Issue: 
February 2015
6

Season the short ribs with salt and pepper. In a large, heavy-bottom pan, heat half the olive oil to smoking point. Brown the short ribs well on all sides.

When browned, remove the ribs and reserve. Discard the olive oil from the pan and wipe clean.

Add the rest of the fresh olive oil to the pan and heat again to smoking point.  Add the celery, carrots, onions and garlic cloves to pan and lightly caramelize. Add in tomato paste, stir and cook mixture for 2 minutes.

Deglaze the pan with the orange halves and reduce to dry.

Add wine and reduce down to the consistency of syrup. Then, add in the bouquet garni, chicken stock and demi-glace. Add short ribs back into this braising liquid and bring to a simmer.

Place pan, covered, in a preheated 250-degree oven and cook for 6 hours.

Remove short ribs from braising liquid and reserve. Cool to room temperature.

Meanwhile, strain liquid and skim off all fat and impurities. Serve short ribs with braising liquid.

 

Meal: 
Main courses

4 1/2 pounds boneless beef short ribs, cut into 6 pieces, 12 ounces each
Salt and pepper
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided
1 pound celery, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 pound carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 pound onions, cut into 1-inch pieces
5 garlic cloves, smashed
3 ounces tomato paste
1 orange, halved
1 750 ml. bottle of Zinfandel wine
1 bouquet garni
1 quart chicken stock
1 1/2 quart veal demi-glace

By Chef Mike McKinnon, The Cypress Room at Island Vista Resort

Pan-Seared Day Boat Scallops with Fennel Sauce and Vanilla-Scented Sweet Potato Puree

Issue: 
February 2015

For the scallops:
Place scallops on waxed paper and season on both sides with salt and pepper.

Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan on high heat. Gently and carefully, place scallops in hot oil. Sear on one side for 1–2 minutes or until the outside is crisp. Flip to the other side and repeat.

When fully cooked (brown and crisp on both sides), transfer scallops onto a plate.

For the fennel sauce:
Remove any bruised outer leaves from the fennel and its tough core. Mince the fennel and set aside.

Heat the olive oil in a medium sauce pan, over medium heat. Add in the minced onion, minced fennel and garlic and let it sweat. When translucent and tender, add in the white wine and let it reduce to half its volume.

Then add the broth, fennel seeds, thyme, orange zest and cover. Cook on low heat for about 30 minutes or until the fennel is fully cooked.

Pour off the liquid and set aside. Put the fennel into a blender and puree while adding back one cup of the liquid. Puree until smooth. Add in more broth for a thinner consistency.

Pass the sauce through a strainer into a sauce pan. Add the cream and place back on the stove and continue to reduce the sauce to desired consistency.

For the sweet potatoe puree:
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Prick potatoes and place them onto a foil-lined baking sheet on middle rack for about 1 1/2 hours or until very soft. Set the potatoes aside until completely cool.

In the meantime, place the heavy cream and vanilla into a saucepan and reduce the cream to half its volume or until thick and creamy. Set aside.

Scoop out the flesh of the cooled potatoes and place into a food processor. Add in the vanilla cream. Puree the potatoes until smooth and creamy in consistency. Add salt and pepper to taste.

 

Meal: 
Main courses

Scallops:
24–30 10/20 fresh scallops or 1 1/2 to 2 pounds
Salt and pepper
1 cup olive oil

Fennel Sauce:
2 fennel bulbs, minced
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 medium onion, minced
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1/2 cup white wine
3 cups vegetable broth
1/2 teaspoon of ground fennel seeds
1/2 teaspoon of thyme flower or a pinch of dried thyme
Zest of half an orange
1 cup heavy cream
Salt and pepper to taste

Sweet Potato Puree:
4 large sweet potatoes
2 cups heavy cream
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
Salt and pepper

 

By Chef Julien Lancrerot, Waterscapes at Marina Inn

Roasted Elk Tenderloin with Butternut Squash Puree

Issue: 
February 2015

For the Elk:

Heat a cast-iron skillet and season the tenderloins with salt and pepper.

Add the olive oil to the skillet and, once it is very hot, add the whole garlic cloves and tenderloins. Sear for 2 minutes on one side. Turn to other side and sear for another 2 minutes. Add the thyme to the pan and the stick of butter and turn the heat down.

When the butter begins to foam, start basting the tenderloins, turning often, for 2 more minutes.

Remove the elk and allow it to rest for 4 minutes before slicing.

For the Butternut Squash Puree:

In a heavy bottom pot, heat the olive oil. Add the shallots and garlic and cook until soft. Then add the cut squash, vegetable stock and heavy cream. Allow it to simmer until the squash is fork tender, but not mushy.

Skim out the squash onto a cookie sheet and place into a 350-degree oven to dry for 12–15 minutes or until it stops steaming. Continue to reduce the cooking liquid down to 2 cups.

Remove the squash from the oven and transfer to a blender. Add the five-spice powder and reduced cooking liquid. Puree. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Meal: 
Main courses

2 cleaned elk tenderloins
Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 garlic cloves
4 sprigs of fresh thyme
1 stick of butter
Salt & pepper

Butternut Squash Puree:
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 shallots, minced
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 medium butternut squash, peeled, seeded and medium diced
3 cups vegetable stock
1 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon five-spice powder
Salt & pepper to taste

 

By Chef James Clark, The Carolina Inn, Chapel Hill, N.C.

Mushroom Veloute

Issue: 
February 2015
4

Clean mushrooms by wiping them with a dry paper towel. Do not wash them. Chop cleaned mushrooms.

Melt the butter in a pot and add the diced shallots. Add in the chopped mushrooms. Let it all simmer on low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, until ingredients are soft. Add a pinch of salt.

In another pot, toast the peppercorns until golden (do not let them burn). When golden, add in the chicken broth and bring to a boil.

Run through a sieve to remove the peppercorns. Pour the broth over the mushrooms. Cook over low heat for 15 minutes. Add the heavy cream and let simmer for another 5 minutes.

Season with salt and pepper to taste. Blend until smooth.

Meal: 
Soups, stews

10 ounces mushrooms (porcini, portabello, cremini or shitake, or a mix of those)
2 ounces butter
3 ounces shallots, diced
Salt
4 ounces whole white peppercorns
1 pint chicken broth
10 ounces heavy cream
Salt and pepper to taste

 

Chef Sokun Slama, New Southern Kitchen, Whiteville, N.C.