In an age where chef owned eateries are becoming as rare as tartare, the landmark Parson’s Table seems to be “a calling”—in more ways than one.

Not only is the Little River fine dining restaurant owned and operated by chef Ed Murray Jr., he’s also the current caretaker of the former Little River Methodist Church, built in 1885, and a place of worship until 1952. In 1978 it was moved two blocks south to its present locale to feed the soul, plate by plate.

The altar call starts with the double-door entryway, carved more than 150 years ago of local cypress. We enjoyed being seated in the main, central dining room to admire the original hand-hewn heart of pine floors, an authentic Tiffany lamp in all its glory and glimpses of a heavenly collection of stained glass culled for years from churches throughout the South.

White linen service at Parson’s Table includes a tray of delicate crackers and cream cheese spread followed by warm crusty rolls and sweet cornbread swaddled in cloth. A crisp glass of Chardonnay was the perfect complement for me.

It took us a while to settle on what to order—the menu being an extremely well-balanced fare of meats, seafood and fowl with a few surprise elements like wiener schnitzel and even a curry dish.

On the advice of our charming server, my husband finally opted for the New Zealand rack of lamb and I chose to delve into the shrimp and chicken curry entrée, ordering the petite portion, which proved to be more than enough for one person.

I have to admit that our expectations ran high to lofty having read that Murray is one of the elite “80 best chefs in America,” in the company of Wolfgang Puck and Louis Osteen, and that Parson’s Table ranks as one of the “top 50 best overall restaurants in the United States,” rates 3-stars from the Mobil Travel Guide and 3-diamonds from Triple A, is recognized by Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator and has been a Golden Fork award recipient.

Following the cheese, crackers and breads, a house salad was tossed and served by our waitress, a lively bowl of greens and julienned carrots in a tangy homemade vinaigrette. A classic Caesar or spinach salad can be had as an appetizer option, but otherwise the house salad is served with every meal.

Our entrees were just the warming comfort foods we needed to face the chilling temps and blustery wind that night.

The full rack of lamb was served fanned across the plate, encrusted by finely ground cashews, perfectly medium rare, wetted by a dark, heady demi-glace spiked with a hint of Madeira. And the accompanying dense mound of garlic mashed potatoes was a match made in culinary heaven.

I met my curry dish nose first, taking in the steamy aromatics of spices and toasted coconut. Ladled atop rice pilaf, the curry had simmered with vegetables and a tiny dice of mango, apricot and green apples. The shrimp took on a delicious sweetness in the company of a coconut milk and tomato sauce, but the chicken was a bland element that tasted as though it fell into the bowl by mistake and the side of tired green beans seemed incongruous.

But even if the curry fell from grace, you don’t get three stars from Mobil unless you offer “skillfully prepared food with a focus on a specific style…warm and professional service … décor well-coordinated … in keeping with the atmosphere.”

In all fairness and judging from my husband’s lip-smacking lamb, I should have gone for one of the house specialties like roasted prime rib, the filet mignon au poivre or the broiled seafood platter that includes Oysters Rockefeller. Next visit, I will.

The Parson’s Table also takes some chill off the recession with an upscale Early Bird Menu from 4:30-5:45 p.m., the only time you can order from a special-priced menu that includes chicken marsala with fettuccine alfredo, flounder meuniere and tenderloin beef tips Diane.

If you’re looking for an indigenous spot to take visitors for a multi-dimensional dining experience, The Parson’s Table is a one-of-a-kind venue serving up equal parts history, reverence and some artful cuisine.