Island Flavor

June 2011
Written By: 
Denise Mullen

Mama Rue’s brings a taste of Jamaica to Pawleys Island

 

 

Straight from the land of patties and patois, Jamaican chef Eric Sutherland is jerking out the kitchen in the brand new Mama Rue’s Restaurant & Blues Garden in Pawleys Island.

Like life on his native Caribbean island, Mama Rue’s is a laid-back gathering spot, big on chit-chat and Red Stripe and authentic Jamaican cuisine that’s been flavored by centuries of influences from indigenous peoples, Spanish, East Indians, Chinese, English and Rastafarians.

Hence the motto of Jamaica: “Out of Many, One People.”

You won’t see the usual meat pattie (of English influence) or ackee and saltfish (national dish of Jamaica) on Mama’s menu, but the island touch comes through in the jerk dishes, oxtail soup, the much-anticipated curried goat special and escovitch.

Jamaicans learned about escovitch from Spanish Jews, and over the past 500 years or so have perfected the fried whole fish delicacy that’s “pickled” in vinegar, Scotch bonnets, onions and seasonings, usually served with a side of peas and rice. Escovitch has almost a cult following of those who love the burn of peppers and kick of spices.

For the more temperate palate, Mama Rue’s serves up dishes like browned stew shrimp in gravy, burgers and pork stuffed dumplings.

But Sutherland is known for shaking up the menu at any given time, like when he decided to pay tribute to the birthday of Muddy Waters by cooking the late blues artist’s favorite foods: Jerk ribs, fried chicken and sweet potato pie.

For dessert, nothing says Jamaican like rum cake. Sutherland also conjures up a mean Voodoo Magic, incorporating plantains with cognac, kaluah and whipped cream.

There’s no standing on formality here, so forget about reservations, come as you are.

Mama Rue’s Restaurant & Blues Garden

Location: 9737 Ocean Hwy., Pawleys Island (843)235-3853 Hours: 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 12:30 a.m. Friday and Saturday

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