When rumors started flying last fall that celebrated chef Ernest Bledsoe had taken over The Whale of Murrells Inlet, more than one inquiring mind wondered, “What could he be thinking?!”

Since at least 1999, The Whale has operated as a ramshackle watering hole, known for serving up chili dogs and grouper bites and for a precariously sagging roof that defied engineering wisdom with no visible means of beam support. If I were a betting woman, I would have started a pool predicting the date that roof would completely cave in.

But in October 2010, Bledsoe made the leap from executive chef at Pawleys Plantation to restaurant owner when he renovated the old Whale building and opened Bliss Restaurant and Lounge.

We popped in one day for lunch only to find every table full, so instead of sampling the gator ribs with Tennessee peach BBQ and apple slaw or the fish taco trio featuring tuna, flounder and grouper with avocado-tomato salsa and aged cheddar, we made dinner reservations.

With the expertly supported new roofline and skylight, church pew seating and treasure trove of woods including South American Osage Orange, we entered the world of the brand new Bliss Restaurant and Lounge, a cross between a rustic fishing lodge and a French brasserie.

Amongst the lilt of lively chatter, aproned waiters snaked around carved-out dining cubbies and the tight-knit scatter of about 15 tables. We were seated in the main dining area, a cozy setting with high-back wooden bench seats with a birds-eye view of the ever-revolving kitchen door and walls lined with Lowcountry-themed paintings by local artists.

Our meal began with warm artisan dinner rolls and the choice of tangerine or garlic and herb butter, and for starters, we ordered a pear and walnut salad and the smoked duck carpaccio.

But first, before we delve into the food, I must make mention of the tableware, glassware and cutlery at Bliss. They’re ideal. The silver is proportioned and weighted to be a pleasure to eat with, the ends curved back in such a way that a fork should never fly off the table and each piece settles naturally on the edge of a plate or bowl. The fine glass stemware has perfect balance and mixed drinks are served in a sophisticated version of a soda shop glass.

The salad came with thin wedges of Anjou over a bed of mesclun greens, tossed in a delicate honey-walnut vinaigrette. What I particularly loved about this plate was the pair of goat cheese medallions coated with a fine-chop of walnuts, giving me the option to have as little or as much of the distinctive-tasting cheese with every bite.

Of duck, I am not a fan. But my husband’s carpaccio selection could very well turn me.

The shavings of smoked duck paired with spinach, grape tomatoes, asiago and a bacon vinaigrette was to be unforgettable, hitting flavor notes of smoky, earthy, tangy and salty, not to mention the distinct texture of each element.

Since I’ve had the pleasure in the past of eating Bledsoe’s award-winning crab crusted grouper, I went to the “Butchers Block” side of the menu to try the ribeye marinated in roasted garlic and my husband took our waiter’s suggestion and ordered braised short ribs.
My once-a-year ribeye proved to be every ounce a treat with a topping of fire-roasted mushrooms and a delightful crusty char on outside pieces of fat. The dish was served with roasted vegetables and I have to say that the Brussels sprouts were the best I’ve ever tasted.

The beefy short ribs had simmered for hours in a Burgundy braisage with root vegetables, served in an ample pristine white bowl over polenta infused with parmesan and herbs. It was captivating by both aroma and presentation, a dish that inspires you to gaze at it longingly before disturbing it with knife and fork.
On a culinary whim, I decided to drink dessert rather than eat it. Skipping over the torte and crème brulee, I asked for the “Angel’s Kiss,” an intriguing house specialty cocktail of lavender and honey syrups, vanilla vodka and cream, shaken not stirred. Believe me, the frothy concoction was worth every sip.
With an ambitious menu and hours, Bliss opens every day at 10 a.m. for lunch, serves dinner until 11 p.m. and brunch on Sundays. The back of the building has been turned into an inviting bar and lounge area that steps out onto a covered deck with a roaring outdoor fireplace.

A dining experience at Bliss quickly transcends the whispers of, “What was he thinking?” to “Look what he’s done!” Ernest Bledsoe clearly shows what vision and inspiration can achieve, taking a blight on the Murrells Inlet strip and turning it into a destination eatery that I predict will hold its own in this fiercely competitive dining district.